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Early Anglo-Saxon Clothing

Lesson #5: Page 8
Jewellery, Footwear and Accessories: Other Jewellery.

Bracelets
It has been noted that the majority of bracelets from Anglo-Saxon contexts are found with the remains of children, seemingly reflecting a continuity of a custom from the Late Roman period.   Indeed, many of the bracelets themselves are of types well represented in the Roman era, particularly those with notched peripheries, those manufactured from twisted rods and those with hook-and-eye fastenings.   Many of those found may be of Roman manufacture; most come from fifth and sixth century contexts.

Other types include large slip-knot types, those with ends twisted into a spiral, cast annular and penannular rings, and annular bands.   Most are of copper-alloy, although some are of silver.   There are also a few examples of bead bracelets.
 

Finger Rings
Although the following generally describes finger-rings, not all were worn on the fingers.   They are sometimes found strung on necklaces, or carried in purses, or in unusual cases, worn on the toes.   Where the sex of the deceased can be determined, finger-rings are characteristically found with female burials and the majority were worn on the left hand; multiple rings accompanying a single burial are not uncommon.

A considerable measure of continuity from the Roman period is recognized in the types of Anglo-Saxon rings known.   Romano-British (and indeed earlier) progenitors can be found for the common spiral rings, which are generally of the fifth- or sixth-century; at present, it seems impossible to separate those of contemporary manufacture from earlier (Roman period) rings, worn by the later generations of Anglo-Saxon women.   These spiral rings may have terminals which barely overlap or they may be carried around the finger two or three turns.   This type of ring (along with simple, penannular types) are often termed ‘expanding rings’, a term which acknowledges the advantages of their variable diameter; they are also easily made – or indeed re-made – from scrap metal, a factor which no doubt contributed to their popularity.

Also Romano-British in inspiration, if not in origin, are a series of annular rings with expanded bezels.   These might be of copper-alloy or silver, or in some instances of gold.   Some may have been set with enamel, whilst a few are set with Roman glass intaglios.   They generally date to the fifth century.

Others with spiral-twisted bezels, are characteristically sixth- or seventh-century in date: it has been suggested that these may have had an amuletic as well as decorative function, serving to deflect the Evil Eye by their convoluted forms.

Closed bands of silver or copper-alloy, plain or with grooved or stamped ornament, may also be assigned to the fifth or sixth century, although some, particularly those with octagonal outlines, again betray Romano-British inspiration.

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Spangles
Sheet-metal pendants were applied to a variety of objects including pins, buckles, boxes, horse-gear, necklaces and bags.   They provided visual interest as they fluttered on their suspension rings, as well as making a pleasant tinkling or jangling noise as they struck against their captive structures or against each other, for many were mounted in pairs.   The German word Klapperschmuck embraces admirably these two functions, but the English language seems to lack a suitably expressive and comprehensive term.

Meaney comments on their occurrence on necklaces or festoons of beads; she suggests they may have been worn as ornaments in the hair and that their diverting appearance and sound may have served to deflect the malevolent powers of the Evil Eye.   Some, she further suggests, may have ornamented amulet bags.

They are of thin sheet metal, usually bronze and are decorated by perforation, stamping, and punching raised bosses.   They are usually square, diamond, triangular or trapezoidal in shape, although a few circular examples are also known.

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