Sewing the Corset Together
No-Tabs Version
1.) Cut out the fabric pieces.
Lay your fabric on a flat surface, folded in half. Make sure that your fabric is folded on the straight (i.e., that the threads of the fabric are running straight up and down next to the fold, and not at some angle.)
Place the center front side of your corset pattern against the fold, and pin it to the fabric. If you have fabric weights, by all means use those instead.
Using a pencil, chalk, or some other non-permanent material, trace the outline of the pattern on the fabric. Cut around the pattern exactly, leaving no seam allowance between the edge of the pattern and where you cut. If you're making a corset with straps, leave a 1/2-inch of extra fabric at the ends of the straps only.
Do all of the above to the lining fabric you're using. When both pieces are cut out, lay them one on top of the other and compare; trim away any small differences between the two pieces.
2.) Baste the two layers together.
With the two pieces of fabric together, right sides out, run a basting stitch along the waist edge a quarter inch away from the edge, sewing them together. Run a basting stitch along the back center, on each side, from the bottom to the top.
3.)Mark and sew the channels for the boning and busk
Once you know what material you're going to use as boning, mark channels slightly wider than the boning material on the inside of the corset with chalk/washeable marker/etc., using the diagram to the right as a guide. Exact placement isn't neccessary, as long as it's symmetric. If you have the busk you're going to use, lay it on the inside of the corset and trace around it; otherwise, follow the chart.
Sew along the marks to create channels for the boning. Straight pins are useful for insuring that both layers lie flat and even. Sew from the top of the corset to the waistline on all stitching, or from the waistline to the top--this avoids wrinkling and twisting the fabric. Test the first channel to see that it is indeed wide enough for the boning before doing the rest.
4.) Finish the bottom and back edges
Lay the satin ribbon wrong side up against the right side of the corset,
with the edge of the fabric even with the edge of the satin ribbon. Starting at the top of one back edge, sew the ribbon and the corset together 3/8 an inch away from the edge down the center back, all along the bottom, and up the other back edge. Cut the ends of the ribbon even with the top of the back.
Turn the satin ribbon over and iron it (or not, depending on the nature of the corset fabric). Fold the satin ribbon over the edge of the fabric to the inside of the corset, and hem-stitch it by hand. Iron it again, to get some of the wrinkles out.
5.) Add the Boning
Slip the boning into the channels. If you're using thin (1/4 in.) boning, you can slip bones inside the satin edging along the back center to help keep the corset from gapping.
6.)Finish the edges on the rest of the corset
If your corset has straps, now is the time to connect them together.
Sew the outer layer's front and back straps together half an inch fron the end of the fabric. Now sew the inner layer's straps together with the seam 1/2 an inch from the ends of the straps, like the outer layer. Sew them so that the finished side faces the inside on the inside layer, and faces the outside on the outside layer.
Take your remaining satin ribbon. Lay it wrong side up on the right side of the corset, with the edges even, starting at the center back along the top. Fold 1/2 an inch of the ribbon around the back center edge to the inside, and sew a seam 3/8 of an
inch away from the edge .
When you reach the edge of the busk pocket, stop sewing. start sewing the ribbon down again on the other side of the busk pocket, and keep going
until you get to the other back center. Leave 1/2 an inch of ribbon extra, fold it to the inside of the back center, and finish off the top.
If your corset has straps, sew the edging the same way around the armholes. Fold the ends of the ribbon back on top of the ribbon so that they won't show, and sew them down.
7.)Finishing Touches
Turn the satin ribbon over and iron it (or not, depending on the nature of the corset fabric). Fold the satin ribbon over the edge of the fabric to the inside of the corset, and hem-stitch it by hand. Leave the ribbon behind the busk pocket unstitched. Iron it again, to get some of the wrinkles out.
Slip the busk into place, and poke two holes in the fabric to match the holes in the busk. you can sew a buttonhole stitch around the holes, making sure not to sew the two layers together. Once the busk is in place, a ribbon will go through the holes in
the lining and through the busk, and tie together in a bow on the front of the corset to keep the busk from sliding out of place.
8.) Put in the Grommets
Using a pen or pencil and starting 1 inch from the bottom edge, mark out 7 to 8 (depending on the length of the corset)
equidistant points up the back center edges of the corset. The points should be at least 1/2 an inch away from the back center edge, and approximately 1 inch apart.
Following the instructions for your grommets, insert and pound the grommets into place. If you've never put grommets into an outfit before, I highly recommend practising on a piece of cloth before you do the corset.
If you're not using grommets, cut a very small hole in the fabric, and sew a buttonhole stitch around it. You can also sew a buttonhole stitch around the metal grommets, to make your outfit look more period.
It is helpful to finish off the lace you're going to use to lace your corset with by rolling the ends small and either wrapping clear tape or thread tightly around them, or dipping them in wax. This makes it a LOT easier to lace with, and reduces curses
and mumbles behind your back.
9.) Immediately rush to the nearest mirror
