Alcega: Farthingale of Silk

Farthingale of Silk. This pattern takes 5.5 yards of 22″ wide fabric

Silk Farthingale

Made by Mathew Gnagy

When viewed from the side, you can see that the front lays rather flat and the manipulation of grain lines and placement of the hoops makes the back stand out a bit more. With the bum pad underneath, it helps , keep this proper angle. Alcega specifically shows in his draft that the straight edges of the back panels are to be sewn to the fronts…the result is a MUCH more period look.

My interpretation of the Verdugado. you can see that front line is rather narrower than our modern versions of a hoop skirt

My style of bum roll that goes UNDER the Farthingale

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3 Responses to "Alcega: Farthingale of Silk"

Natasha Birt says:

October 19, 2013 at 1:07 am

I love this site and its nice to see the patterns made ‘whole’. I had one question though, I was wondering if you could provide the research on the inclusion of the bumroll? My finding has been limited in this regard other than a vague reference of ‘wool padding on hips’ and would be interested in any research in this regard.

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1. Drea Leed says:
  
  October 19, 2013 at 3:13 am
  
  In all of my readings of 16th century documents, I’ve only found one reference to a farthingale with a bumroll: a reference to “a farthingale and cushionet”, the cushinet probably being some sort of cushion or roll, worn beneath the farthingale, most likely.
  
  Until the 1580s, the roll for gowns was actually a small roll sewn into the pleats of the gown itself, rather than worn underneath it. this is a much superior way of doing things–the roll, stitched to the pleats, helps to keep the pleats in place, and you don’t have to worry about it slipping around, back, forward, or down your hips. Looking at the silhouette of skirts of the 1560s and 70s, I believe these rolls would have been about 2 inches in diameter.
  
  In addition, the pleats were stiffened by adding a layer of heavy wool or stiff canvas between the outer fabric and lining before pleating them. The combination of this stiffening, and a roll sewn into the pleats, produces exactly the look of the gowns of the time.
  
  Hope this helps!
  
  Reply
Costume History - Undergarments that the Tudors wore. - says:

May 20, 2018 at 8:52 pm

[…] A reproduction of a roll farthingale (bum roll)(Image found here) […]

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Alcega: Farthingale of Silk

Silk Farthingale

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